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2007.02.25 Weekend Walks:
Belleville, 20e
It's refreshing to see that Paris of the 21st century is more than
baguettes, fromage and crèpes. The city is
bursting with ethnic quartiers
and petits-coins that are a
welcome and necessary haven for expat Torontois.
We found the 13e, Chinatown,
in our first few days here and stocked our little pantry with several
kinds of rice
and necessary Asian sauces. Then, last weekend we stumbled upon
Little India at la Chapelle Station.
There is no doubt that this is a Franco-multiculturalism that groups
together a whole other world of people from
those exiled in Anglo cities. For example "Chinatown" here is
largely made up of communities from Vietnam
and Cambodia.
Little India's restaurants were mostly serving South-Indian cuisine
from old French colonial
cities like Pondichéry.
I guess I'm a bit of a Frenchy myself as we made sure to visit these
places while we
were in Asia. Mais pourquoi pas?
Our walk yesterday took us to Belleville,
the birthplace of Edith Piaf,
the little urchin/emblematic voice of Paris.
She was born on a set of steps to a rooming house and went on to win
over the world with her crooning. Even
today, the neighbourhood looks a little tough, graffitied with
socialist slogans and messages against the man
with people huddled over drugs in the park. Working class in
Paris, once a white phenomenon, now includes
people from Asia, Africa, and the Middle-East living in the residential
blocks and social housing of this and
surrounding neighbourhoods.
These new communities have diversified the Parisian cullinary
experience to include North-African simmering
Tajines, Tamil Nadu's Masala Dosa (South-Indian crepes), kebabs and
Turkish tea houses. Traditional French
architecture has been transformed to house these new storefronts.
Food isn't the only thing on offer; discount
clothing and footwear fill the streets of the 10e and 20e
arrondissements. I couldn't resist picking up a pair of
knee-length stiletto boots for a bargain price of 15 euros, oh, and
little gold slippers for a fifth of that.
Vive Paris Mondial!

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