Today we visited Changdeokgung Palace in Insadong, close to where we’re staying.  We definitely lucked out with our accomodation.  Insadong is an artzy district of winding alleys and cobblestone streets.  We’re near several temples and right beside a tourist information booth.  In the morning we can stroll out to the yummy bakery beside our yogwan, eat breakfast, and visit the friendly folk at the tourist booth to plan out our day.  There are so many things we want to do, but we’re only staying for 5 days.

Today we visited Changdeokgung Palace.  It is the last palace in which the Korean emperor ever lived.  It was built in the 15th century and was used until the last monarch died at the start of the 20th century, around the time of the Japanese occupation.  Koreans are still bitter towards the Japanese for the brutal 1910-1935 occupation.  What they are most upset about is that the Japanese never properly apologized or compensated for their brutality.  The World Cup is now in the works with kick-off set for June and both countries down as co-hosts.  I notice in Japan there seems to be an increasing interest in Korea amongst my students, but I wonder if it’s only a surface thing, and how much of it will survive in the wake of soccer fever.  The 2 cultures are definitely linked and related in undeniable ways.  Many food items such as sushi and grilled meat appear abundantly in both cultures.  Many things descended from China to Japan through Korea, such as style of dress and Chinese writing characters.  But there’s nothing like the devil you know I suppose, and Japan went far in marring opportunities for Asian unity at the start of last century.

I learned today that during the 1910 occupation, the Korean crown prince was kidnapped and brought to Japan where he was forced to marry a Japanese woman, despite the fact that he already had a Korean fiancée (I doubt the Japanese woman had much choice in the matter either).  The prince was also turned into a commoner, to the outrage and shame of Korean people.

Still, I am struck when observing the temples and the living quarters how similar things are to Japan.  I do notice more references and a stronger link to Chinese Confucianism in Korea, which hardly gets mentioned at all in Japan.  I noticed it particularly in the separation of women’s and men’s quarters in the palace, and of course the greater splendour of the male quarters.  Korean monarchs were also polygamous according to the Confucian ideal with the wives living together away from the big man of the house.  Definitely a vibe of women as secondary citizens.   But our (female) guide was quite funny.  She kept mentioning Confucian rules and attitudes towards women but in the next breath would say that these things were no more.  Not in the sense of Korea as a perfect, non-sexist society, but more in the manner of demonstrating that women in Korea are strong and stand up for their rights.  There was one gate we arrived at which she said court women were not allowed to pass through, but with a toss of her head and the words:  “but no more” she beckoned for us to join her in passing under it.

Symbols of resistance and cultural preservation figure prominently in Korea, due largely to its history of invasion from both Japan and China.  The Palace was guarded on the north by a tortoise and on the south by a lion to protect against the demons of the North and South.

For more (accurate ;)  information on Changdeokgung Palace.